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Back in the day, oil-based paint was the go-to for places that tend to deal with moisture—like bathrooms and outdoor spaces. But here's the thing: oil paint really only works well when it's at least 50 degrees outside. These days, though, we usually suggest going with latex paint instead. Thanks to some pretty impressive improvements, many of today’s latex paint and primer combos hold up just as well as oil-based ones—and you can use them in temps as low as 35 degrees. Plus, a lot of paint brands are phasing out oil-based options altogether, which could make touch-ups or future updates a hassle if you stick with oil.

Oil-based paint used to be the top choice for areas that deal with a lot of moisture—think bathrooms or exterior walls. The catch? It only works well if the temperature is above 50 degrees. Nowadays, we typically recommend going with a high-quality latex paint. Modern versions are seriously durable, often just as tough as oil-based paints, and they can be applied in cooler temps—as low as 35 degrees. On top of that, many paint companies are moving away from oil-based products altogether, which could make things tricky down the road if you ever need to repaint or do touch-ups.

VOC stands for volatile organic compounds—and some paints still contain high levels of them. At David Thompson Painting, we don’t recommend using high-VOC paints indoors. They give off a strong, chemical odor and can impact the air quality in your home. While VOCs are still found in things like paint, varnish, and adhesives, they’re really not necessary anymore. Thanks to advancements in paint technology, most interior paints today are made with low VOCs. These newer formulas are not only better for your health but also deliver great coverage and a professional finish.

Rich, vibrant color that lasts—that’s one of the big perks of using high-quality paint. At David Thompson Painting, we always recommend going with a premium paint, especially if you want a finish that holds up over time. Better paints are more resistant to fading, even with regular sun exposure. Plus, they go on smoother, cover better, and often need fewer coats, which means less waste and a quicker project overall. It’s a smart investment that saves time, money, and materials in the long run.

No, if the existing paint is in good condition, with small spots, stains, and limited damage, you can repaint the walls without removing all of the existing paint. However priming first is always recommended to make sure the old color does not bleed through to the new color. Paint that is pealing and cracking should be scraped away. Holes and imperfections in the wall surface should be patched and sanded.

If you want your paint job to look its best, it’s a good idea to prime the walls first—especially if you're covering a bold or dark color with something lighter. Primer helps create a smooth, even base so the new color goes on more evenly. It's also super important to prime any spots you've patched and sanded before you start painting. That way, everything blends together nicely and you get a clean, professional-looking finish.

Elastomeric paint is designed to protect masonry surfaces. These coatings help protect your stucco or brick from wind driven rain to create a waterproof system.

Latex paint usually dries in around 4 hours, while oil-based paint takes a bit longer—typically 6 to 8 hours. No matter which type you're using, it’s important to let the first coat dry completely before adding another. If the paint still feels sticky after 24 hours, something’s not right—it could be a bad batch or applied over a surface that needed priming. In that case, you’ll want to either prime over it or remove it before repainting.

Before you stain concrete, there are a few key steps you’ll want to follow to make sure the finish looks great and lasts:

1. First, strip off any old sealers, paint, adhesives, or coatings.
2. Give the surface a thorough cleaning.
3. If you're using an acid-based stain, prep the surface with a concrete etch and cleaner—then rinse it really well. Avoid using muriatic acid—it can break down the minerals that give the stain its color.
4. For water-based stains, a mix of dish soap and water usually does the trick. For oil spots, a degreaser and neutralizer diluted 4-to-1 works best.
5. Rinse everything off thoroughly.

One more thing: if the concrete is super smooth or dense and water just sits on top instead of soaking in, you’ll need to lightly sand the surface. This roughs it up enough for the stain to properly absorb.

One big perk of using stain instead of paint on concrete is that stain actually soaks into the surface, while paint just sits on top. Because of that, stained concrete tends to hold up much longer than painted concrete.

When it comes to trim and molding, semi-gloss paint is usually the way to go. It has more shine than satin but isn’t as reflective as high gloss, striking a nice balance. That said, high gloss can be a great option for trim in areas that get cleaned frequently or have a lot of moisture—like bathrooms.

If your trim is new or already pretty smooth, a quick once-over with 120-grit sandpaper is usually enough before you paint. But if it’s rough or has a lot of texture, start with a coarser 80-grit sandpaper and then finish with 120-grit to smooth things out. Good news—you don’t have to strip off all the old paint. Just make sure the surface is clean and smooth so the new paint sticks well.

Start with a high-quality primer, then follow up with an oil-based paint for a strong, lasting finish. We recommend applying two coats for the best coverage. Just make sure the first coat is fully dry before adding the second—this helps the paint go on smoothly and stick properly.

A premium primer designed for painting metal such as Rust-Oleum is the best choice for an outdoor metal awning. After gently sanding the metal surface with a 180-grit sandpaper apply the primer with a few thin coats. Allow each primer coat to dry completely before applying the next coat.

Once you've taken the awning down, grab a wire brush to scrub off any tough dirt and rusted spots. If you find small holes, patch them up with a metal repair compound like Alvin metal putty, and let it fully cure before moving on. After the putty dries, give the whole surface a light sanding with 180-grit sandpaper. Then, use a rust treatment or a metal cleaner designed to handle rust to clean everything thoroughly. Once that's done, your metal awning is prepped and ready for paint!

Start by giving the entire brick surface a good pressure wash to remove any dirt or grime. Let it dry completely before you move on to sealing.

Next, choose the type of sealant that works best for your needs. There are three main types: paint, surface sealers, and penetrating sealers. Paint is the most budget-friendly option, but it completely covers the brick with a solid color—so you won’t see that natural brick look. It also doesn’t last as long and will need regular upkeep, just like any exterior paint.

Surface sealers are a step up—they cost more than paint, but they go on clear, last longer, and don’t need as much maintenance. Just keep in mind, they sit on top of the brick rather than soaking in.

Penetrating sealers are the premium choice. They’re designed to soak deep into the brick, offering long-lasting protection—sometimes up to 30 years—with minimal maintenance. Many of these also dry clear, so you keep the natural brick look. If you go with a surface or penetrating sealer, make sure to pick one that lets the brick “breathe.” Trapped moisture can lead to bigger problems down the road.

If you're getting ready to paint your apartment complex, be sure to ask your painting contractor a few key questions before getting started:

• Have you worked on other apartment buildings? Can you share some references?
• Can you provide a detailed, itemized estimate?
• What’s the timeline for the project?
• Do you carry liability insurance?
• Are you licensed to work in this state?
• What kind of prep work will you handle before painting starts?
• What quality or brand of paint do you plan to use?
• Do you offer a written warranty for your work?

Asking these upfront can save you time, money, and headaches later on.

A lot of factors can influence the cost of a painting project, so it’s a good idea to keep these points in mind when talking with your contractor:

• The type of surfaces and finishes being painted
• How much prep work, patching, or repairs are needed
• The quality and brand of paint you choose
• How many coats will be required for solid, even coverage
• Whether any special equipment or techniques will be needed
• The timeline for completing the job
• The overall size and scope of the project

Discussing these details upfront will help you get a more accurate estimate and avoid surprises down the road.

Removing wallpaper is easier when you moisten it first. Fill a spray bottle with hot water and add a little fabric softener—about 1/4 cup per gallon of water. Lightly mist one section of the wallpaper at a time, starting from the top left and working your way down. You can also use a damp sponge if that’s easier. Let the moisture soak in, and it’ll be much simpler to peel off.

Removing wallpaper can be a slow, messy job that takes patience. Most methods require steam or a damp sponge, but be careful not to use too much water, as it can damage the underlying drywall. When you start peeling the wallpaper, it might come off in small strips, so keep a trash bag nearby to toss it as you go. Wet wallpaper pieces can stick to other surfaces, so it’s best to dispose of them right away. Also, it’s easy to accidentally create nicks or holes in the drywall during removal, which means you might need a fair amount of patching and repair work before the walls are ready to paint.

For a long time, homeowners were told to steer clear of orange for their front door because it faded quickly and was tough to touch up. But thanks to advancements in paint technology, fading and color matching are no longer an issue. Now, homeowners can confidently choose any color they like for their front door.

The good news is that epoxy floor coatings are affordable, durable, and easy to keep up with. They’re also resistant to chemicals, which is why they’re so popular for garage floors. However, some people consider these downsides:

• Epoxy floors don’t help reduce walking or impact noise.
• They can feel cold underfoot, kind of like a tile floor.
• Epoxy doesn’t offer any cushioning or non-fatiguing benefits.
• If there are imperfections in the floor underneath, they might show up as ripples once the epoxy is applied.

Epoxy can sometimes have trouble sticking properly. It doesn't bond well in super cold temperatures or in areas with high humidity, like basements or bathrooms. If it doesn't adhere properly, the coating can start to crack and peel over time.

When applied at the right thickness, an epoxy floor can last anywhere from 10 to 20 years with minimal upkeep. On the other hand, a painted concrete floor may start to chip and peel, especially in high-traffic areas, which could mean needing touch-ups every year.

Painting the inside of your cabinets is a great way to protect them from everyday wear and tear. A solid coat of paint seals the wood, helping to prevent damage. At David Thompson Painting, we recommend removing the cabinet doors and letting the interior dry completely between coats. Be sure to wait at least 48 hours before putting anything back in the cabinets. Plus, painting the insides can add a fun pop of color to your kitchen!

Cabinet refinishing and cabinet painting are pretty much the same thing. Refinishing involves sanding and all the prep work before painting. While painting cabinets also requires similar prep, it’s a good idea to confirm this with your contractor. It’s also important to note that cabinet refinishing is often confused with cabinet resurfacing, which involves replacing the doors and drawer fronts with brand-new ones.

Sand, prep, and prime cabinets before spraying paint to remove any imperfections from the cabinet. In between each coat of paint, gently sand your cabinets using 300-400 grit sandpaper. Sandpaper will knock down any marks to give you a super smooth surface to work with. Allow 48 hours to dry before lightly buffing the cabinet doors with 0000 steel wool.

Spray painting kitchen cabinets gives a much smoother, more flawless finish compared to using a roller brush. However, it tends to be more expensive. On the other hand, using a roller brush made for cabinet painting will leave a bit of texture on the surface, but it’s a more budget-friendly option.

Start by sanding or scraping around the edges of the hole to help the patching material stick and create a smooth surface. For small holes, use a drywall patch kit. Cut the mesh adhesive strip to be a little bigger than the hole and press it over the hole, applying even pressure. Then, smooth out the joint compound with a putty knife, feathering the edges so it blends seamlessly with the wall. Let the spackle dry for about 24 hours, then sand it smooth before painting over the area.

Start by patching and repairing any holes. Then, be sure to prime the drywall before you paint—it’s not a good idea to apply paint directly to unprimed drywall. Once the primer is dry, wipe away any dust, and your walls will be ready for paint!

Failing to prime your drywall before painting can create the look of a patchy and uneven finish. The paint may also peel when exposed to humidity.

Once the seams are taped and finished, we recommend applying two coats of high-quality paint for a smooth, even finish.

A spray texture application can give your walls both visual and physical texture. There are three main types of spray texture:

• Popcorn
• Orange Peel
• Sand

For small drywall repairs, you can use a canned spray texture. It’s a quick and easy way to blend the repair area seamlessly with the rest of the wall’s texture.

For small patches use a spray texture can. For larger jobs use a system that provides a consistent, high continuous air supply at a lower pressure below 50 psi throughout the entire job.

You should wait about 10 to 15 minutes after spraying. Once the sheen disappears from the first area you sprayed, start dragging the knockdown knife in smooth, overlapping motions across the surface.

Reflective roof coatings are typically used on commercial buildings. They help save on heating and cooling costs by keeping temperatures more consistent. These coatings also act as a protective barrier, extending the lifespan of your roof. They protect against UV rays, which can break down materials over time, and help reduce weather-related erosion. The most common types of roof coatings are silicone, elastomeric, and aluminum.

Roof coating is best left to the professionals. There are four types of roofs that can really benefit from a coating:

• TPO (Thermoplastic Polyolefin): This is the most common roofing material for commercial buildings today. Before applying the coating, a single-ply primer should be used.
• Modified Bitumen: This asphalt-based, rolled-roofing material is commonly found on commercial low-slope roofs and works well with coatings.
• EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Terpolymer): A synthetic rubber-based material often used on commercial buildings. EPDM roofs need to be primed before applying a coating.
• Metal Roofs: Both commercial and residential metal roofs can be coated. Be sure to apply extra coating to the seams, screws, and penetrations to prevent moisture from getting trapped.

The most time-consuming part of refinishing an old, weathered deck is finding and replacing any broken or rotting wood. Once those repairs are done, power wash the deck and let it dry completely. Next, strip away any peeling paint or finish. You don’t need to strip the whole deck unless you’re changing the color. Sand the surface until it’s smooth, then apply two coats of a high-quality stain or sealant. Be sure to let each coat dry fully before applying the next.

When using a popcorn ceiling remover spray, it takes around 10 hours to remove the popcorn from a 25ft x 10ft room, including drying time. Plan for about 20 hours per 500 square feet to fully remove the popcorn texture from the ceiling.

Once the popcorn texture is completely removed, it’s time to patch, repair, and sand any damage to the drywall. If there were bad seams hidden by the popcorn, you might need to retape them. It’s also common to have holes and gouges from the removal process that will need to be patched up.

For textured walls, it’s best to use a matte or eggshell finish paint. Glossy paint can make the texture look too harsh and overpower your room’s decor. A matte finish gives a more subtle look that blends well with other features in the room. To get the best result, use a “high-nap” or “fluffy” roller brush for a smoother application.